RADEN-ORI

Weaving Light.

The light dwelling within the nacreous layers of a seashell, transformed into thread. That light, woven together with silk into textiles.

"Raden-ori" created by Tamitani Raden is a technique that transforms the very light of the shell into fabric.

WHAT IS RADEN-ORI

From Shell Ornamentation to Wearable Textile.

Raden is a traditional technique that utilizes the luster of seashell nacre to adorn the surfaces of objects.

Honoring this beauty, Tamitani Raden took on the challenge of transforming the shell's light into fine threads to weave it directly into textiles.

Shifting from light that decorates a surface to light that dwells within the fabric itself—this is how the expression of "weaving light" was born.

THE LIGHT OF SHELL

What we weave is the light nurtured by the workings of the sea.

The nacreous layers of a seashell quietly reveal different expressions depending on the angle of the light. Without losing that radiance, we transform it into a single material and weave it into the fabric.

PROCESS

Until Light Becomes a Textile.

01 / FOIL MAKING

Transforming the shell's radiance into a material to weave.

02 / CUTTING

To the fineness required for weaving.

03 / WEAVING

Weaving the light, strand by strand.

Raden-ori encompasses two main techniques: "E-haku," where seashells are arranged on Japanese washi paper to create patterns, and "Jacquard," which uses shell-applied materials to form patterns through the weave structure.

Here, we introduce the process focusing primarily on E-haku.

01 / FOIL MAKING

Reading the direction of the light.

貝の厚さ約0.1mm

Shells, shaved to a thickness of approximately 0.1 mm, are cut according to the design and pasted onto Japanese washi paper, one piece at a time.

The mother-of-pearl of the shells reflects light differently depending on the viewing angle, changing its appearance. Therefore, each piece of shell is carefully positioned with consideration for the direction in which it reflects light, so that the light emerges naturally throughout the overall pattern.

Washi paper also expands and contracts depending on temperature and humidity, and its strength varies between the vertical and horizontal directions. For this reason, the work is carried out while carefully assessing the characteristics and condition of the material.

02 / CUTTING

To the fineness required for weaving.

箔糸の幅約0.6〜0.75mm

The washi paper, onto which the shells have been pasted and gold decoration applied, is cut into fine, thread-like strips approximately 0.6 mm wide.

If the cutting blade is not parallel to the washi paper, or if there are even slight variations in the width of the foil threads, defects may occur in the finished fabric. For this reason, each strip is carefully inspected after cutting.

03 / WEAVING

Weaving the light, strand by strand.

The cut foil threads are woven into the fabric as weft threads. During this process, the foil threads are secured to a tool called a kobi, specially prepared by the artisan. Using this tool as a weight, the threads are passed through the opened warp threads.

The nacre of the shells shines in various colors, including blue, pink, and purple, depending on the viewing angle. To connect these reflections of light beautifully, it is important not only to carefully control the position and direction of each foil thread, but also to precisely align the markings on the washi paper and maintain the original order of the threads from before cutting.

Even the slightest misalignment can interrupt the flow of light created by the shells. By carefully checking each individual foil thread, the artisans connect the natural brilliance of the shells throughout the woven fabric.

MAKING RADEN-ORI

Checking every single one, with utmost care.

LIGHT IN MOTION

Light changes its expression in motion.

The viewing angle. The movement of the body. The shifting light.

In response to these, Raden-ori quietly transforms its expression.

TANGO

Inheriting and evolving in a land of textiles.

Tango, where Tamitani Raden is based, is a region that has nurtured silk-weaving techniques over a long history.

Through the encounter between inherited weaving technology and the unique material of seashells—rather than merely preserving tradition as it is—Raden-ori has been shaped by introducing new materials.

FROM TEXTILE TO OBJECT

From textiles to light you can wear.

Raden-ori, which has been cultivated through the creation of obi sashes, is now expanding into various forms. Bringing the light of textiles closer to everyday life.